Fountains Fell and Pen-y-ghent

The route

From Horton-in-Ribblesdale this 33.4km loop heads out across farmland before the long pull onto Fountains Fell, a vast peaty whaleback that sees a fraction of the traffic of its famous neighbour. The summit plateau is rough and wet, scattered with the remains of old coal workings, and the running is honest moorland: tussock, bog and faint track. From the top you drop toward Pen-y-ghent, the route swinging round to climb its southern flank.

The summit

Pen-y-ghent rises to 694m and gives the day its sharpest moment, a short rocky step near the top where hands come briefly into play before the path eases onto the summit. The views stretch across the Three Peaks country and down the length of Ribblesdale. From here the well-marked Pennine Way carries you back toward Horton on firmer, faster ground.

Why it works

This is a proper long day that rewards strong navigation and steady pacing rather than raw speed. Fountains Fell brings remoteness and solitude, Pen-y-ghent brings the drama, and the contrast between them is the point. Save energy for the second half, because the climb back onto Pen-y-ghent comes when your legs are already loaded. Pick a clear day so the broad top of Fountains Fell stays straightforward to read, and carry everything you need, as there is no shelter or water once you leave the valley.

Getting there

Horton-in-Ribblesdale makes an ideal base, with its own station on the Settle to Carlisle line and a National Park car park in the village. The route shares ground with the Pennine Way and the Three Peaks paths in places, so the navigation eases on those stretches, but the crossing of Fountains Fell is where map and compass earn their keep. Set off with plenty of daylight in hand for the full 33.4km.