Muker, Thwaite and Keld
You circle Kisdon Hill through the three prettiest villages in Swaledale, past the hidden Kisdon Force and through the famous hay meadows that turn the valley yellow in June.
Effort: Moderate distance, manageable climb
Underfoot: Some uneven or off-path ground
E2·T2 — how we grade routesYou circle Kisdon Hill through the three prettiest villages in Swaledale, past the hidden Kisdon Force and through the famous hay meadows that turn the valley yellow in June.
A 10.8km loop linking the three classic upper Swaledale villages of Muker, Thwaite and Keld, circling Kisdon Hill past waterfalls and flower meadows. Quintessential Dales running on the corpse road and river paths.
The route
Start in Muker and make a 10.8km loop around Kisdon Hill, linking Thwaite and Keld along the old corpse road and the paths above the Swale. The route climbs onto the flank of Kisdon for the high, airy traverse, then drops to the river and back through the meadows to Muker. It is short but full of the character that makes Swaledale special, and it stays runnable throughout without ever feeling tame.
The valley
Upper Swaledale is Dales scenery at its most complete: stone villages, field barns, drystone walls and the famous flower meadows around Muker, which come alive with wildflowers in early summer. Kisdon Hill sits in the middle of the dale, and the loop wraps around it, taking the corpse road once used to carry the dead to consecrated ground at Grinton. Along the way the Swale tumbles over Kisdon Force and East Gill Force, hidden waterfalls just off the line, with Keld sitting where the Pennine Way and the Coast to Coast cross.
Why it works
This is a route to enjoy at a civilised pace. The distance is modest, the navigation straightforward on clear paths, and the villages give you shops, a pub and cafes along the way. It suits an easy day, a run with company, or a first outing in Swaledale. The meadows are protected, so keep strictly to the paths in the growing season, and the riverside holds mud after rain while the higher traverse can be rough. Come in June to catch the meadows at their best, when the whole valley floor is a mass of flowers. Muker has parking and refreshments, and Keld has the Park Lodge cafe halfway round, so it is easy to make a relaxed morning of it.
The protected hay meadows must not be trampled, so keep strictly to the paths in the growing season. The riverside holds mud and the higher traverse is rough, with the Swale rising fast in spate.
Leave No Trace
- Leave nothing but footprints, take nothing but memories.
- Please respect the countryside and all its inhabitants.
- Dogs on leads near livestock, and around ground-nesting birds from March to July.
- Gates as you find them — open or closed, leave it that way for the farmer and the next runner.
- Take it all home — wrappers, peel, tissue, the lot. It doesn't count as biodegradable if you can still see it.
- Stick to the path where the ground either side is wet, planted, or nesting habitat.
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